Mary’s has been adored for years as a place with one of the city’s top lobster rolls (competing mainly against Pearl Oyster Bar), and I’ve been one of those adorers, waiting patiently for my seat at the bar so I could order up that along with the oyster po’ boy and the perfectly awesome hot fudge sundae. What I realized on my last visit to Mary’s is that while Mary’s Fish Camp gets plenty of attention, there are two things on the menu that just don’t get enough credit, like…
THE WHOLE FISH. Holy crap is this good. My friend Hadi, a true foodie in from LA, insisted he couldn’t get good whole fish in LA, so he starts dreaming of Mary’s before his flight East and by the time he lands he’s on a mission. Having had it with him, I understand why. The brilliance is in the quality of the fish and the brilliant simplicity: it’s treated with herbs and lemon, and served with some grilled vegetables. Could fish really taste this good? I forget, sometimes, when it’s covered with all sorts of fancy sauces, that a good fish is hard to beat with just a little lemon.
NEW ZEALAND COCKLES. These are so sweet and wonderful that my mouth just watered as I wrote this. Served in broth with beans and garlic and parsley and a fair share of butter, you could slurp these up by the dozen.
Mary’s Fish Camp: 64 Charles St at the corner of W. 4th St. Get more info at www.marysfishcamp.com